SMITHSONIAN  INSTITUTION. 

UNITED  STATES  NATIONAL  MUSEUM 


0  I 


IRECTIONS  FOR  COLLECTING.  PREPARING,  AND 
PRESERVING  BIRDS’  EGGS  AND  NESTS. 


BY 


CHARLES  BENDIRE, 

Honorary  Curator  of  the  Department  of  Oology. 


Part  D  of  Bulletin  of  the  United  States  National  Museum,  No.  39. 


WASHINGTON: 


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INSTRUCTIONS  FOR  COLLECTING,  PREPARING,  AND  PRESERV¬ 
ING  BIRDS’  EGGS  AND  NESTS. 


By  Charles  Bendire, 

Honorary  Curator  of  the  Depart7?ient  of  Oology . 


In  making  a  collection  of  nests  and  eggs,  it  _s  of  rhe  utmost  impor¬ 
tance  that  the  identification  of  all  specimens  taken  should  be  absolutely 
correct.  The  only  sure  way  to  accomplish  this  is  to  secure  the  parent  at 
the  same  time.  This  should  at  least  be  done  with  all  the  less  known  and 
rarer  birds,  and  continued  until  the  collector  is  thoroughly  familiar  with 
the  breeding  habits,  nesting  sites,  and  eggs  of  the  species  in  question. 

Unless  the  would-be  collector  intends  to  make  an  especial  study  of 
oology  and  has  a  higher  aim  than  the  mere  desire  to  take  and  accu¬ 
mulate  as  large  a  number  of  specimens  as  possible  regardless  of  their 
proper  identification,  he  had  better  not  begin  at  all,  but  leave  the  nests 
and  eggs  of  our  birds  alone  and  undisturbed.  They  already  have  too 
many  enemies  to  contend  with,  without  adding  the  average  egg-collec¬ 
tor  to  the  number.  The  mere  accumulation  of  specimens  is  the  least 
important  object  of  the  true  oblogist.  His  principal  aim  should  be  to 
make  careful  observations  on  the  habits,  call  notes,  soug,  the  character 
of  the  food,  mode  and  length  of  incubation,  and  the  actions  of  the  species 
generally  from  the  beginning  of  the  mating  season  to  the  time  the  young 
are  able  to  leave  the  nest.  This  period  comprises  the  most  interesting 
#  and  instructive  part  of  the  life  history  of  our  birds. 

Do  not  start  in  with  the  idea  that  because  a  certain  species  may  be 
common  with  you  everything  must  consequently  already  be  known 
about  it,  and  that  your  observations  would  be  useless.  Rest  assured 
that  some  new  and  interesting  fact  can  still  be  learned  by  the  observant 
oologist  about  even  our  commonest  birds. 

*  A  small,  thoroughly  identified,  well  prepared,  and  neatly  cared  for 
collection,  even  if  only  a  local  one,  is  worth  far  more  scientifically  and 
*-n  every  other  way  than  a  more  extensive  one  obtained  by  exchange  or 

*  purchase.  One  of  the  most  important  matters  is  the  preparation  of 
the  specimens.  Eggs,  when  first  taken  and  before  blowing  them,  should 
as  far  as  practicable  have  all  stains  and  dirt  on  the  shells  wiped  or 
washed  off.  Care  must  be  taken,  however,  not  to  scrub  the  shell  too 
much  or  too  hard,  as  such  treatment  may  result  in  breaking  the  speci¬ 
men  or  injury  to  the  coloring  matter,  which  in  many  species  is  not 

[3] 


9 


BULLETIN  39,  UNITED  STATES  NATIONAL  MUSEUM.  [4] 

thoroughly  fixed  in  a  fresh-laid  egg.  This  applies  especially  to  the  eggs 
of  many  game  birds  and  hawks,  as  well  as  to  others.  The  shells  of 
some  of  the  water  birds,  as  the  Pelicans,  Gannets,  and  Cormorants, 
are  covered  with  a  more  or  less  uneven  deposit  of  lime.  This  should 
not  be  scraped  or  scrubbed  off.  Especial  care  should  be  taken  to 
thoroughly  clean  all  white  eggs  both  inside  and  outside,  particularly 
those  of  Woodpeckers. 

Eggs  should  be  blown  or  emptied  through  a  single  small  hole  neatly 
drilled  on  one  side,  as  shown  in  the  figure  on  page  8.  It  is  well  to  com¬ 
mence  making  this  hole  with  a  needle  and  finishing  it  with  an  egg  drill, 
which  is  given  a  rotary  motion  between  the  thumb  and  forefinger.  In 
marked  or  spotted  eggs  the  poorest  or  least  marked  side  should  always 
be  selected  for  this  purpose.  Great  care  should  betaken  to  remove  the 
entire  contents. 

A  simple  blowpipe  and  a  few  different  sized  drills,  like  those  figured 
below,  which  may  be  obtained  at  any  natural-history  dealer’s  establish¬ 
ment,  are  all  the  implements  required  to  blow  an  egg. 


Drills. 


Blowpipe. 


Hums 


Embryo  book. 


Curved  pointed  scissors. 


Tweezers. 


Many  collectors  use  very  fine  glass  points  attached  to  a  rubber  bulb, 
others  use  an  instrument  manufactured  by  Mr.  E,  W.  Ellsworth,  of  East 


[5]  COLLECTING  BIRDS*  EGGS  AND  NESTS — BENDIRE. 

Windsor  Hill,  Connecticut,  which,  although  somewhat  more  expensive, 
is  one  of  the  best  egg-blowers  known  to  me.  A  short  blowpipe  like  the 
above,  with  a  rubber  tube  about  3  feet  in  length  and  a  horn  mouth¬ 
piece  attached,  makes  a  very  satisfactory  instrument  for  general  use. 

To  blow  an  egg. — Drill  a  small  hole  on  the  side  and  in  the  center  of 
the  egg,  insert  the  tip  of  the  blowpipe  for  a  very  short  distance,  and  re¬ 
move  the  contents  as  far  as  this  can  readily  be  done.  In  fact  an  egg 
can  be  blown  without  inserting  the  point  at  all,  simply  holding  it  close 
up  to  the  hole  and  forcing  air  through  it.  Should  the  albumen  be 
thick  or  stringy,  and  not  run  out  freely  while  blowing  the  egg,  push 
aside  such  parts  as  may  be  forced  out  of  the  hole  with  the  end  of  the 
blowpipe  or  a  small  pair  of  forceps,  and  shake  the  egg ;  this  will  facili¬ 
tate  matters.  Small  portions  of  the  albumen  and  yolk  of  the  egg  will 
usually  remain  in  the  shell,  and  this  is  best  removed  by  forcing  water  into 
the  egg  with  a  small  syringe,  holding  the  point  of  the  latter  over  the  hole 
and  an  inch  from  it.  This  will  always  allow  a  part  of  the  water  to 
enter.  When  about  half  full  shake  the  egg,  holding  it  between  the 
fingers,  and  then  blow  out  the  contents.  If  the  water  does  not  come 
out  perfectly  clear  repeat  the  process  until  it  does.  Eggs  that  have 
been  thoroughly  cleaned  will  retain  their  original  color  much  better, 
and  insects  or  mice  are  not  so  apt  to  injure  them.  After  the  egg  has 
been  cleaned  it  should  be  put  away,  hole  downward,  and  allowed  to 
drain.  The  best  material  to  place  an  egg  on  to  absorb  whatever  moist¬ 
ure  may  remain  in  it  after  cleaning,  is  corn  meal.  Particles  of  this  sub¬ 
stance  that  may  remain  sticking  about  the  hole  of  the  egg  are  easily 
removed  by  a  slight  touch  of  the  fingers.  I  find  coarse  corn  meal  to  be 
by  far  the  best  article  to  drain  eggs  on,  as  it  will  not  stick  tightly  and  is 
always  readily  removed ;  the  danger  of  chipping  small  pieces  of  the 
shell  around  the  edges  of  the  hole,  which  often  happens  where  blottiug 
paper  or  fine  sawdust  are  used  for  this  purpose,  is  in  this  way  reduced 
to  a  minimum. 

In  cases  where  eggs  are  nearly  hatched  when  found,  excepting  very 
small  and  thin-shelled  ones,  which  beyond  a  certain  stage  can  not 
readily  be  saved,  and  should  not  under  such  circumstances  be  disturbed, 
drill  a  slightly  larger  hole  in  the  shell  aud  puncture  or  lacerate  the 
embryo  with  a  needle  or  a  sharp  embryo  hook.  Care  must  be  taken 
not  to  run  the  instrument  through  the  opposite  side  of  the  egg.  Then 
try  to  force  out  such  of  the  contents,  consisting  of  fluid  portions  and 
parts  of  the  yolk,  which  have  not  been  entirely  absorbed  by  the  embryo. 
This  may  be  accomplished  either  by  the  blowpipe  or,  perhaps,  more 
readily  by  holding  the  point  of  a  small  syringe,  filled  with  water,  directly 
over  the  hole  and  about  an  inch  from  it,  and  forcing  a  steady  stream  of 
water  into  the  egg.  Never  insert  the  point  of  the  syringe  directly  in 
the  hole,  unless  you  wish  to  burst  the  egg.  Do  not  attempt  to  force 
out  too  much  in  the  beginning.  After  getting  out  some  of  the  softer 
contents  of  the  egg,  fill  it  with  the  water,  wipe  it  dry  and  clean  and  put 


BULLETIN  39,  UNITED  STATES  NATIONAL  MUSEUM.  [6] 

the  specimen  so  treated  in  a  covered  box,  in  which  you  have  first  placed 
a  layer  of  corn  meal  about  an  inch  in  depth.  The  object  of  this  treat¬ 
ment  is  to  allow  the  water  injected  to  come  in  contact  with  the  more 
tender  parts  of  the  embryo  and  to  accelerate  decomposition.  In  order 
to  remove  the  contents  through  a  small  hole,  these  must  be  allowed  to 
decompose.  A  strong  solution  of  Caustic  Potash  injected  as  before 
stated  accelerates  matters,  reducing  the  embryo  to  a  soft  soapy 
mass,  and  such  treatment  does  not  injure  the  shell  of  the  egg.  Next 
place  the  box,  after  closing  the  lid,  in  a  warm  place,  either  in  the 
sun  or  under  a  stove,  and  let  it  remain  undisturbed  for  about  48 
hours.  Repeat  this  operation  two  or  three  times,  always  assisting 
the  removal  of  any  small  particles  which  may  be  forced  out  of  the  hole 
by  cutting  such  away  with  a  thin-bladed  pair  of  scissors;  curved 
pointed  ones  are  the  best  for  this  purpose.  Do  not  try  to  pull  the 
embryo  out,  nor  to  empty  the  egg  at  one  operation;  use  a  little 
patience,  and  in  this  manner  most  far-advanced  eggs  can  be  emptied 
through  a  reasonably  small  aperture.  The  egg  should  be  refilled 
with  fresh  water  after  each  operation.  Do  not  try  to  take  the  inner 
lining  of  the  shell  out,  in  case  it  becomes  detached  during  the  rotting 
process;  it  does  no  harm  by  remaining,  while  the  chances  are  that  you 
will  break  the  egg,  which  is  naturally  much  weakened  without  this 
skin,  if  you  attempt  to  remove  it.  Occasionally  a  collector  may  obtain 
rare  unblown  specimens  in  which  the  contents  have  completely  dried 
up  and  hardened,  and  it  may  puzzle  him  how  to  empty  such  eggs.  Un¬ 
less  they  contained  large  embryos  when  first  found,  or  when  abandoned 
by  the  parents,  they  may  easily  be  blown  by  the  following  directions  : 

Take  common  bicarbonate  of  soda,  dissolve  about  3  tablespoonfuls 
to  a  pint  of  water  and  simply  inject  this  solution  in  the  egg  and  treat 
as  previously  mentioned.  Repeat  this  once  or  twice  at  intervals  of  48 
hours  and  you  will  probably  have  no  great  difficulty  in  emptying  your 
specimens  through  a  moderately  small  hole,  and  the  shell  will  not  be 
injured  by  this  solution. 

In  blowing  small  and  delicate  eggs,  I  find  the  use  of  an  egg-holder  of 
considerable  assistance,  and  consider  this  mode  of  holding  a  small  egg 
much  safer  and  far  more  convenient  than  taking  the  specimen  between 
the  tips  of  the  fingers.  To  make  one,  take  a  piece  of  thin  wire,  say 
from  6  to  8  inches  long,  bend  both  ends  in  the  shape  of  a  circular  loop 
of  the  required  size,  again  bend  the  wire  exactly  in  the  center,  so  that 
the  loops  face  each  other  somewhat  like  a  pair  of  sugar  tongs,  and  you 
have  a  holder.  The  wire  used  should  be  springy  and  elastic,  so  that 
it  will  readily  give  somewhat  and  hold  the  egg  securely,  but  not  too 
tightly  at  the  same  time.  Brass  wire  answers  the  purpose  very  well. 

It  is  always  preferable  to  blow  eggs  at  home,  or  after  returning  to 
camp.  Yon  have  usually  better  facilities  then  to  do  your  work  neatly 
than  in  the  field,  where  one  is  apt  to  be  in  a  hurry,  and  often  to  have 
no  water  to  rinse  the  inside  of  the  eggs  thoroughly  after  blowing  them. 


[7]  COLLECTING  BIRDS’  EGGS  AND  NESTS - BENDIRE. 

This  is  positively  necessary  to  insure  good  clean  specimens.  I  found 
an  old  hat  piece  of  sponge,  say  about  2  inches  thick  by  from  4  to  G 
inches  wide  and  long,  placed  in  a  tin  basin  partly  tilled  with  water  to 
soften  and  saturate  it,  very  handy  during  the  operation  of  blowing  eggs. 
The  sponge  forms  a  convenient  and  elastic  cushion  for  the  eggs  to  rest 
on,  while  I  injected  with  water  to  rinse  the  inside  thoroughly,  and 
should  one  drop  out  of  the  egg-holder  the  chance  of  breakage  is  small. 
The  coarse  kind  of  bathing  sponge  is  best,  lasts  for  years,  and  can 
easily  be  kept  clean  and  sweet. 

For  packing  unblown  eggs  while  out  in  the  field  I  find  small  boxes 
(cigar  boxes  will  answer  the  purpose  very  well),  fitted  with  different 
sized  subdivisions,  very  convenient.  Each  of  these  small  partitions  may 
be  lined  with  open  cylinders  made  of  blanket  or  heavy  cloth.  They  may 
be  from  2  to  4  inches  long,  according  to  the  depth  of  the  box,  and  from 
1  to  2  inches  in  diameter,  according  to  the  sizes  of  the  eggs  one  may  ex¬ 
pect  to  find.  The  bottom  of  the  box  should  be  extra  well  lined  with 
either  sheet  cotton,  cloth,  or  blanket  cut  the  required  size  to  fit  this 
closely  all  around,  on  which  the  frame  forming  the  subdivisions  is  then 
placed.  A  piece  of  heavy  cloth  or  blanket,  cut  to  fit,  is  placed  on  the 
open  top  of  the  box,  or  it  may  be  glued  to  the  lid.  The  sides  of  the  differ¬ 
ent  partitions  are  lined  by  the  cylinders  already  mentioned,  each  form¬ 
ing  thus  a  little  compartment  of  its  own,  avoiding  all  pressure  from  the 
contents  of  the  others,  and  each  of  these  should  be  provided  with  some 
extra  cotton.  One  or  two  eggs  may  then  be  placed  in  each  cylinder, 
with  cotton  on  top  and  between  them,  to  keep  them  from  moving  around, 
and  if  the  eggs  are  of  small  size  sets  of  four  may  be  placed  together, 
but  in  such  a  case  each  egg  must  be  wrapped  in  cotton  separately. 
Under  no  circumstances  should  the  eggs  be  put  in  loose,  with  the  shells 
touching  each  other.  Placed  in  this  way,  some  are  sure  to  be  either 
cracked  or  broken.  If  the  eggs  are  of  fair  size  more  than  two  should 
never  be  put  in  the  same  compartment,  as  their  combined  weight  might 
crush  the  lower  ones.  With  ordinary  care  and  packed  as  above  Irail 
and  unblown  eggs  will  nevertheless  stand  considerable  jolting. 

Many  rare  and  valuable  specimens  are  also  lost  through  improper 
packing  when  sent  by  mail  or  express;  by  observing  the  following 
rules,  such  losses  may  be  to  a  great  extent  avoided.  Egg-shells,  even 
after  having  been  blown,  should  (during  transit,  at  least)  never  touch 
each  other.  Each  egg  should  be  wrapped  separately  in  cotton,  and 
they  should  not  be  packed  too  close.  In  sending  eggs  through  the 
mail,  they  should  be  packed  in  stout  wooden  boxes,  the  box  being  first 
lined  with  cotton  all  around  and  the  eggs  placed  in  afterwards,  rather 
loosely,  each  egg  wrapped  in  cotton  by  itself.  Tin  boxes  .are  not  as 
good  as  wooden  ones.  Cigar  boxes  answer  well,  provided  they  are 
partitioned  off  through  the  middle,  to  prevent  the  lid  being  crushed  in 
on  top  of  the  eggs,  which  often  happens  where  this  precaution  is  not 
taken. 


BULLETIN  39,  UNITED  STATES  NATIONAL  MUSEUM.  [8] 

Each  setting,  clutch,  or  the  fall  complement  of  eggs,  usually  called  a 
“set,”  should  at  once  after  finding  them  be  marked,  temporarily  at  least, 
so  that  in  case  several  sets  of  eggs  of  the  same  species  are  taken  at  the 
same  time,  each  individual  set  maybe  readily  separated  from  others  of 
the  same  kind. 

In  marking  eggs  permanently,  I  consider  the  following  a  good  way : 
Eggs  should  be  marked  with  a  soft  pencil  in  preference  to  anything  else, 
as  these  marks  can  always  be  washed  oft*  clean,  when  it  is  desirable  to  do 
so,  which  can  not  be  done  when  certain  inks  are  used.  A  good  way  is  to 
place  the  catalogue  number  of  the  eggs  on  one  side  of  the  hole,  and 
the  set  number  and  number  of  the  eggs  contained  in  the  set  on  oppo¬ 
site  sides.  The  date  of  collecting  can,  if  desired,  be  placed  below,  and 
it  is  well  to  mark  this  on  at  least  one  egg  of  each  set.  For  example,  I 
desire  to  mark  a  set  of  ten  eggs  of  the  Sora  Rail,  Porzana  Carolina 
(Linn.),  taken  June  14, 1890.  The  check  list  published  by  the  American 
Ornithologists  Union,  is  most  generally  used  at  present,  and  I  use  its 
numbers  in  this  case.  The  Sora  Rail  stands  number  214  on  this  list, 
and  I  mark  the  eggs  of  the  set  as  follows : 


No.  214  is  the  A.  0.  U.  check  list  number  of  this  species.  No.  86  the  running  number  of  the  set 
No.  10  indicates  the  number  of  eggs  in  the  set. 

and  the  numbers  below  the  hole,  which  need  only  be  put  on  a  single 
specimen  in  each  set,  indicate  the  date.  The  next  set  would  also  be  214 
if  of  the  same  species,  but  the  running  or  current  number  in  this  case 
would  be  87,  followed  below  by  tbe  number  of  eggs  the  set  contained. 
Aside  from  this  a  regular  record  should  be  kept  for  each  set  of  eggs 
taken. 

Many  collectors  use  regular  blank  forms  for  this  purpose,  which  are 
carefully  filed  away.  A  good  sample  of  such  a  blank  is  about  6  inches 
square,  printed  on  a  good  quality  of  paper,  and  these  may  be  kept  like 
the  card  catalogues  generally  in  use  in  libraries. 

These  blanks  may  be  printed  as  follows : 

Oological  collection  of - .  Current  No.  - . 

A.  O.  U.  check  list  No. - .  Date - . 

Name  \  Scientific  - . 

(  Common  - . 

No.  of  eggs  in  set - .  Set  mark - . 

Identification - .  Incubation - . 

Locality  - — = - . 


[9]  COLLECTING  BIRDS*  EGGS  AND  NESTS — BENDIRE. 

Nest  diameter,  outside, - -  inches ;  inside, - inches. 

Nest  depth,  outside, - inches;  inside, - inches. 

Nest  composed  of - . 

Situation  of  nest - . 

No.  of  parent - .  Collector - . 

On  a  blank  of  this  size,  everything  of  interest  can  be  readily  noted, 
using  the  reverse  side  also,  if  more  space  for  details  is  required. 

A  small  printed  blank  (those  used  in  the  U.  S.  Nat.  Museum  collection 
measure  2J  by  1 J  inches,  but  can  be  made  still  smaller  if  desired)  should 
also  be  kept  with  each  set  of  eggs  in  addition  to  the  above. 

This  should  give  the  following  information  : 

Odlogical  collection  of - . 

Current  No.  - .  Set  No. - . 

Scientific  name - . 

Collector - .  Date - . 

The  marks  on  both  blanks  should  correspond  with  those  on  the  set 
of  eggs  in  question. 

Aside  from  keeping  the  data  previously  mentioned,  it  is  well  to  keep 
a  regular  record  book  with  an  index,  in  which  to  note  down  anything 
of  interest  relating  to  every  species  observed,  such  as,  in  the  case  of 
migrants,  the  dates  of  their  first  arrival  in  the  spring,  the  date  when 
last  seen  in  the  fall,  the  localities  most  frequented  by  each  species,  their 
various  call  notes,  notes  of  alarm,  and  song,  the  contents  of  the  stomachs 
of  such  specimens  as  are  shot,  and  their  relative  abundance,  in  fact  every¬ 
thing  of  general  interest.  Field  notes  should  be  written  on  one  side  of 
the  paper  only.  Unblown  eggs,  a  part  of  whose  shells  have  been  in¬ 
dented,  may  be  restored  to  their  natural  shape  by  first  drilling  a  hole  on 
the  same  side  of  the  egg,  where  the  injury  is  located,  but  a  little  distance 
away  from  this  if  possible.  Then  insert  the  blowpipe  in  the  hole  and 
force  air  gently  in  the  egg;  as  soon  as  the  indentation  has  disappeared 
and  the  shell  has  taken  its  natural  shape,  take  a  camel’s  hair  brush 
dipped  in  collodion  and  cover  the  injured  surface  of  the  egg  with  a  small 
quantity,  place  the  specimen  away  until  the  collodion  has  hardened, 
then  finish  blowing  it.  Eggs  which  have  been  cracked  before  blowing, 
or  during  the  process,  may  be  treated  in  the  same  manner,  as  well  as 
broken  specimens. 

The  best  way  to  collect  and  preserve  nests  is  not  to  detach  or  lift 
them  from  their  immediate  surroundings,  but  to  leave  them  in  their 
natural  positions,  cutting  ofi  the  branches,  if  placed  in  a  tree  or  shrub,  a 
couple  of  inches  or  more  above  and  below  the  nest.  In  this  way  they  can 
be  much  better  preserved  in  their  original  shape  and  are  less  liable  to 
injury.  Nests  of  the  ground-building  species  should  have  a  thin  section 
of  the  sod  on  which  they  are  placed  taken  up  and  preserved  with  them. 
The  inner  cavity  of  each  nest  should  be  filled  with  a  ball  of  soft  paper, 
old  newspapers  answer  the  purpose  very  well,  or  old  cotton  wrapped 
in  tissue  paper  and  tied  in  place.  This  assists  materially  in  preserving 


BULLETIN  39,  UNITED  STATES  NATIONAL  MUSEUM.  [10] 

the  exact  contour  of  the  nest  mold,  especially  where  from  want  of  space 
a  number  are  packed  on  top  of  each  other.  Where  the  inner  lining  of 
nests  consists  principally  of  feathers  or  fur,  a  small  quantity  of  naph¬ 
thaline  should  be  sprinkled  among  them  to  keep  moths  and  insects  away ; 
otherwise  many  interesting  specimens  are  soon  destroyed  by  such 
pests.  The  nest  belonging  to  each  set  of  eggs  should  be  labeled  simi¬ 
larly  and  the  label  attached  to  the  side  of  the  nest.  Many  collectors 
keep  each  set  of  eggs  in  the  respective  nests,  but,  unless  the  collection 
is  a  small  one  and  excellent  care  is  taken  of  it,  this  is  not  advisable,  as 
many  nests  are  more  or  less  damp  when  taken  and  are  apt  to  become 
moldy,  affecting  the  eggs  in  a  like  manner. 

It  is  not  the  intention  to  give  instructions  through  this  circular  just 
where  to  look  for  the  nests  of  our  birds.  An  observant  oologist  can 
soon  find  out  the  different  modes  of  nidification  by  watching  the  species 
found  in  his  vicinity. 


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